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T R i i A T I S E 



iCULTlT^ OV l,r' ^AHLIA 




SB 413 
.D13 S2 
Copy 1 



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VY E. SAVERS, 

ir ri.OWER CAni>ES ruMPAN 



OH TON: 

VVKKKS, JmUDAN A N >• * '^ M " a N y 



WEEKS, JORDAN & CO. 

HAVE LATELY PUBLISHED 

THE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN 

COMPANTON ; by E. Sayers, author of the 

American Fruit Garden Companion, &c. &c. A 

new, revised and enlarged edition. 

Extract from Gen. Dearborn's letter to J. Breck, 
Esq. — " It is precisely such a work as was required on 
that most interesting portion of Horticulture. The 
arrangement of the subjects is appropriate, and the infor- 
mation under each head is so lucid and practical, as to 
the management of each family of plants, as respects 
exposure, soil, varieties of compost and culture, that every 
person who has a taste for Flowers will be enabled to 
rear ihem in the best and most satisfactory manner." 

THE AMERICAN FRUIT GARDEN 
COMPANION ; by E. Sayers. 

This work has already passed to a second 
edition the present season. The Morning Post 



" It gives a variety of valuable information on a subject 
at once important and pleasing. I'he author, Mr Edward 
Sayers, proves himself a thorough master of the science 
of horticulture, and his work cannot fail to be highly 
popular with the votaries of that beautiful science." 

BIRDS AND FLOWERS and other Coun- 
try Things ; by Mary Howitt — a gem for the 
leisure of the summer months in the country. 

ROLLO BOOKS, by Jacob Abbott— new 
edition. 



TREATISE 



CULTURE OF THE DAHLIA 



CACTUS. 



BY E. SAYERS, 

AUTHOR OF THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION, ETC. 



BOSTON: 

WEEKS, JORDAN AND COMPANY, 
1839. 



Ettter«d according to Act of Congrew, in the year 1839, by E. SAYERS, 
in the Clerk's Office of the Dietrict Court of Massachusetts. 






•P»eg<oJ*TutllB, Dennett * Chisholii* 
I • r r 17 f chool Stfrtt.; • 2 ; 



9 



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PREFACI2. 

The general desire manifested by the lovers 
of choice flowers to improve the beautiful tribes 
of the Dahlia and Cactus, has induced the 
writer to compile this little treatise. He does 
not pretend that the following pages are entirely 
original; he acknowledges his obligations to 
the late works of Paxton and M'Intosh, two 
of the most eminent floriculturists in Great 
Britain. So far, however, as these pages have 
any claim to originality, the compiler has 
drawn from an experience of no recent date in 
the general culture of flowers, during which he 
has paid particular attention to the Dahlia and 
Cactus. The favorable reception which, in the 
present enlightened state of horticulture, is ex- 
tended to every consistent effort for the improve- 



VI PREFACE. 

ment of any of its departments, encourages him 
to send his little treatise to the press ; and that 
it may have a tendency to strengthen the im- 
pulse already prevalent in the culture of choice 
flowers is his earnest wish. 
May, 1839. 



CONTENTS. 



CULTURE OF THE DAHLIA. 

Introduction, 9 

Effects of seasons and location, - - 17 

Situation, 18 

Propagation, ------ 22 

Planting out, 28 

Raising new varieties from seed, - - 29 

General culture and training, - - 31 

Pruning and thinning, - 33 

Fall management, 34 

Preserving the roots in winter, - - - 35 

Characteristics of a good flower, - - 39 

Conclusion, 42 

Descriptive list of dahlias, - - 46 

CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 

Description and modes of culture, - - 49 

Culture in rooms, 56 

Crafting, 57 

General observations, .... 57 

Treatment in the house, - - - . 60 

Conclusion, 68 

List of cactus, 71 



CULTURE OF THE DAHLIA. 



INTRODUCTION> 

Theee are few subjects that can engage 
the attention and leisure hours of the intelli- 
gent observer of nature in a more satisfactory- 
manner than the culture of flowers ; for in 
them we find a perpetual fund of information 
that at once enlivens the mind, and gives a 
new energy to our researches. Who can ex- 
amine the nice symmetry and regular structure 
of a flower, of the least admired varieties, 
without at once acknowledging that the supe- 
rior order of nature defies the most correct 
artist to produce so fair a copy : nor can the 
best painter vie with the nice tinselling of the 
pencil of nature, or design any thing original 
that will compare with the native flowers that 
arc perpetually unfolding their blossoms to 
our view. Unlimited as is the number of 
those primitive beauties, that ever retain their 
regular number of parts and symmetrical 
order, so that among millions of flowers of 
2 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

the same species no difference is discoverable 
to the most careful examiner, their peculiar 
nature admits of certain sports or variations of 
form and color, so that the art of man can 
gratify his desire for novelty, by producing 
from the primitive, new varieties that bear a 
similitude to their parent, although entirely 
different in color, form and structure. This 
part belongs to the Florist, and perhaps no 
flower was never more diversified, and impro- 
ved in a floricultural view, than the Dahlia ; 
for within a few years we have been made 
acquainted with many hundreds of varieties 
proceeding from a few. Nor are they more 
remarkable for their number than for their 
brilliant and diversified shades and colors, 
which give every variety of contrast, from 
self or distinct shades to the most mingled 
and variegated — from a clear white to a dark 
purple. This beautiful flower, too, has been 
found to possess such qualities as will admit 
of being grown to correct modifications and 
colors that are considered by florists as the ne 
plus ultra of their art. The success of the 
culture of the Dahlia within a few years has 
been such as to gratify the most sanguine 
desire and the most refined taste of the ama- 
teur. Taking the flowers in a general view 
as ornaments of the flower garden, they may 
be considered as the " nobles" of their season. 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

for certain it is that no flowers of their season 
add so much brilliancy to the flower garden 
as a good collection of the Dahlia. The lim- 
ited object of this little treatise prevents me 
from doing more justice to this lovely flower ; 
I shall therefore proceed to give some account 
of its introduction into notice and its native 
country, which I quote from " Paxton on the 
Culture of the Dahlia,'''' an English work, and 
one of the best treatises I have seen in print 
on the subject. 

" We are informed," says the writer, " from 
indisputable authority, that this plant was first 
introduced into this country [England] from 
Spain, by the Marchioness of Bute, so early as 
1789: but, as it was not subsequently heard of, it 
is supposed to have been lost shortly after this 
introduction. In 1804, accounts are recorded 
of seeds of this plant having been transmitted 
by Lady Holland, from the Royal Gardens at 
Madrid to Mr Buonaruti, then resident in this 
country. From these seeds a few plants 
were produced, and some of them flowered in 
the following season ; while two others are 
said to have flowered in the garden of Lord 
Holland in the autumn of the second year." 

Mr Paxton adds : " The botanical name, 
Dahlia, was first given to this genus in honor 
of Dahl, a Swedish botanist, by Cavanilles, a 
Spanish botanist ; but the propriety of this 



12 INTRODUCTION. 

having been disputed on account of its resem- 
blance to Dalea, a name previously bestowed 
on a genus of a totally different nature, and 
more especially as the name of the genus 
under consideration is frequently, but vulgarly^ 
pronounced Ddylia^ many botanists agreed to 
change the name to Geot^gina, some say, in 
honor of Georgi, a Russian traveller and bot- 
anist, while others assert, in compliment to 
Lady Holland, through whom it was introdu- 
ced into this country : but, although the learn- 
ed M, De CandoUe and other eminent botanists 
adopted the latter appellation, and although 
many efforts have been made to establish its 
name in this country, it has been found that 
the original name, Dahlia^ had become too 
generally known and received to be easily 
eradicated ; besides which, having the priority 
of publication, (which is considered conclusive 
in such matters,) it is now almost universally 
acknowledged. 

" The Dahlia is a native of the high sandy 
plains of Mexico, where it was first discovered 
by that eminent and indefatigable botanist, 
Humboldt, five thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, but in what year we have no 
authentic accounts. There are three distinct 
species of this genus : D. coccinea, D. Cer- 
vantesii, and D. variabilis ; of which the two 
former are not now cultivated, as they do not 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

readily sport into varieties, and are much less 
beautiful than D. variabilis, from which latter 
all the innumerable varieties at present known 
to our collections have emanated. From the 
most authentic sources we thus learn that the 
Dahlia has been cultivated in this country 
[England] for upwards of thirty years, but 
perhaps during the whole time it cannot 
strictly be said to have attained any degree 
of perfection till within the last ten years ; 
and, if we take a retrospective view of the 
progress of Dahlia culture during this brief 
period, what abundant cause have we for 
wonder and astonishment ! Each succeeding 
year produces some fresh beauties to admire ; 
each revolving season develops some new 
peculiarities of shape and color ; every annual 
catalogue apprises us of immense accessions to 
our previous stock ; and we are involuntarily 
led to exclaim, ' Where will all this termi- 
nate .?' But, to this interrogatory, time alone 
can aiford a solution ; and whatever conjec- 
tures may be entertained, it is impossible to 
come to any satisfactory conclusion." 

Having spoken of the introduction and en- 
couragement given to the Dahlia in Europe, 
it now becomes my duty to give a cursory 
view of the encouragement it has met in this 
country, for certain it is that in this part of 
floriculture America keeps a closer pace with 
2* 



14 INTRODUCTION. 

Europe, than in the culture of any other class 
of florist's flowers. It is only within ten or 
twelve years that any fine specimens of 
Dahlias were to be seen in this neighborhood, 
nor I believe in any other parts of the States ; 
the D. coccinea speciosissima I recollect to be 
first grown by Mr William Leathe, of Cam- 
bridgeport, near Boston, about ten years ago 5 
it attracted much admiration, and at that time 
was considered a very elegant flower ; it was 
however soon eclipsed by that splendid scar- 
let, the Countess of Liverpool, and a general 
improvement made rapid strides in the self 
colors, until the parti-colored flowers made 
their appearance and formed a new era in the 
list of choice Dahlias. It would be altogether 
needless for me to name over the many 
splendid varieties now extant ; suffice it to 
say that almost every variety of shade and 
color, as well as the greatest perfection of 
form, is now to be seen in the Dahlia. There 
is much credit due to certain individuals who 
have been at pains to introduce new and rare 
kinds into this country, as they have made 
their appearance in Europe. Through their 
laudable eflTorts the lovers of the Dahlia have 
been put in possession of choice kinds with 
comparatively little trouble, a correspondence 
having been kept up by these public spirited 
individuals with Widnal and the most noted 



INTRODUCTION. 15 

growers in England and other distant coun- 
tries. 

No person has done more for the intro- 
duction and advancement of the cuUure of 
the DahUa than George C. Thorburn, of New 
York, who yearly flowers many thousand 
plants at his place at Hallet's Cove, near 
Harlaem. The show there in the flowering 
season is a rich treat for the lovers of floricul- 
ture : for almost every variety can be seen 
growing in two large blocks or masses which 
lead from the road to the dwelling-house, and 
form a complete field of the Dahlia as a fore- 
ground to the house. 

Mr T. Hogg, Mr William Read, and many 
other well known florists, have also contributed 
much in the vicinity of New York, to the 
introduction of the Dahlia. Indeed so general 
has become the taste that almost every garden 
has its show of the Dahlia in the season. In 
Boston too, there are many choice collections, 
and there exists a rivalship among the ama- 
teurs which is a sure prelude to perfection in 
floriculture. In the vicinity, the Messrs Hovey, 
of Cambridgeport, have bestowed much pains 
in collecting yearly the choice kinds from 
every source where they could be obtained ; 
their collection is well chosen, and the interest 
they take to show their flowers in the flower- 
ing season entitles them to the public patron- 



16 INTRODUCTION. 

age. The lovers of flowers caiinot but be 
sensible that a free privilege to view such 
collections as those, should be requited by 
liberal purchases of the plants, thus encour- 
aging and aiding the grower to carry the cul- 
ture to the highest point. — In the vicinity of 
Cambridge, ]Mr Samuel Sweetser's collection 
is also amongst the best in the Union ; ]\Ir 
William Leathe, of that place, ^yith Mr jMcIn- 
tire, have well chosen collections ; and indeed 
it might be said that the Po7^t is almost unri- 
valled for amateurs in florist's flowers. Many 
more amateurs might be quoted in this neigh- 
borhood who have much contributed to the 
culture of the Dahlia, would my limited space 
allow. 

There is no flower of such a decorating 
character as the Dahlia in its season ; for, 
whether it finds a place around the limited 
ground of the city residence, or the open ex- 
posure of the rural cottage, its brilliant 
flowers shine unrivalled and attractive to eve- 
ry observer : by the roadside it invites and 
cheers the wearied traveller, and in the city 
it gives a lively conception to eveiy passer 
by. 



EFFECTS OF SEASONS ETC 17 



EFFECTS OF SEASONSAND LOCATION, 

The cultivation of the Dahlia is generally 
encouraging to the lovers of floriculture ; and 
when well understood is very simple in its 
operation. The Dahlia adapts itself to tnore 
Variations of soil and location in favorable 
seasons than any other family of plants that 
claims so general admiration. As a proof of 
this, we find it flourish in the impure air of a 
city equally as well as in the most salubrious 
air of the country. Nor does a different kind 
of soil act so materially on its well-being as 
on many kinds of plants which are partial in 
their nature, and will cily flourish in their 
peculiar soil and locatl n. But should the 
season prove unpropitious, the most unremit- 
ted and scientific exertions of the cultivator 
cannot counteract its effect on the flowering ; 
although in some cases good culture will 
greatly assist the process. The most unpro- 
pitious season to the Dahlia in this climate is 
a long continuance of drought in the months 
of July and August : for when this occurs 
the growth of the young shoots is impeded so 
that the flower buds cannot unfold and de- 
velop ; but are impoverished in their embryo 
state in the shoots, which are naturally 
converted into a hard, woody substance, in 



18 SITUATION. 

order to bear the extreme dry season. In 
this case it is not until the cool nights of the 
fall months that the Dahlia can make the 
proper shoots for flowering ; and this often 
happens so late that the entire stalk is killed 
by the frost before flowering commences. 
The most favorable locations in such seasons 
are on the borders of rivers, lakes or large 
sheets of water, that aflbrd a humid atmo- 
sphere in the mornings and evenings of hot, 
sultry weather : for there is no plant of the 
flower garden that is more benefited by a 
humid atmospheric air than the Dahlia. 

So far as my experience has been in regard 
to location, I have found that a free exposure 
is tbo best ; for when the Dahlia is grown in a 
confined, shady situation, the plant is generally 
drawn slender, and the flowers produced are 
thin of petals, and do not possess the bright, 
vivid color as when fully exposed. But care 
must be taken to plant the Dahlia where it is 
sheltered from the north and northwest winds, 
by which the plants when in a growing state 
are often blown down and injured. 



SITUATION 



The Dahlia flourishes best in an open 
situation where it is not subject to the shade 



SITUATION. 



19 



and drippings of trees or tall shrubs. "It 
delights" says Paxton, " in a position where 
it can constantly receive the vivifying and 
strengthening rays of the sun, from the time 
he issues forth in eastern glory, to the period 
of his setting below the western horizon." 
This fact is apparent to the most superficial 
observer ; for when the Dahlia is grown in 
the shade or confined places, it always makes 
a slender growth, and the flowers are gener- 
ally in such locations small, and do not pos- 
sess that brilliancy of color that they attain 
when in full exposure. Tliis is fully exem- 
plified in the Dahlia growing in confined pla- 
ces in cities, and shaded avenues. 

Paxton observes, " in its native state, the 
Dahlia is found growing on plains ; and from 
this, as well as many years' experience on 
this subject, we learn, that to grow this plant 
in perfection, it requires to be planted in a 
very open and exposed situation." 

It is quite important to grow the Dahlia to 
perfection, that a flat, exposed situation should 
be chosen ; and that the soil be of a mellow 
loamy nature, that holds a regular moisture ; 
but does not contain it in so great quantities 
in the fall of the year, as to saturate the soil 
so as to rot the tubers, which is often the 
case. 

In regard to the local position of the Dah- 



20 SITUATION. 

Jia, it may be planted to good advantage 
in any site where it is exposed. In the 
central part of a flower border, a little on 
the rise from the walk, it has a good effect 
when planted at convenient distances, so that 
it is not crowded with other flowering plants. 
Where a garden is laid out so that embank- 
ments are raised at equal distances, it has a 
pretty appearance on the border, or grouped 
in irregular figures on grass plots ; when the 
different varieties are mingled and planted 
with taste (as recommended under the head 
of planting) it forms a noble and preposses- 
sing appearance. In many cases the Dahlia 
is mingled among shrubs in shrubberies, or 
the facing of clumps of trees, when it has a 
pretty effect ; in this case care should be ta- 
ken to plant the tall, brilliant growing kinds, 
which should be placed so as their flowers 
form a mingled contrast with the foliage of 
the shrubs, which can be effected by noticing 
the heights of the shrubs, and planting those 
kinds that will correspond when grown, to 
their full stature. 

The Dahlia may be planted to an excellent 
purpose to give a graceful appearance to the 
observer, by placing it in a raised situation, 
and more especially when in groups ; the va- 
rieties in this case should be so disposed as to 
give a mingled appearance to the whole of 



SITUATIOK. 1^1 

the different colors, and their heights should 
be so managed that they form a regular slope. 
The dwarf plants being placed next to the 
eye of the observer, and the tallest to form 
the backing, which should be bright showy 
kinds, and the light mottled varieties should 
be so managed as to be placed in front. 

In planting the Dahlia, for the purpose of 
flowering in the greatest perfection for show 
flowers, there is no better method that I am 
acquainted with than to plant them in a block 
or square flat piece of ground ; the roots may 
be planted in rows about four feet apart each 
way ; if an alley for a walk is left between 
three feet wide, it is a good method, for in 
this manner of planting, there will be plenty 
of space left between, to prune and tie up the 
plants without, injuring them in doing the 
work. The walk between the rows will also 
admit any one to a free access to view their 
beauty without treading the ground too close 
about their roots, which is often very injurious 
to the roots of the Dahlia, and besides, the 
continual walking between them binds the 
soil so, that the sun, air, and rain cannot pen- 
etrate and have a free access to their roots. 
In this position, too, the flowers have a free 
access to the sun and air, so as to retain a 
brilliancy of color that could not b6 obtained 
in a shady and unpropitious location. 
3 



22 PROPAGATION, 



PROPAGATION. 

There are several methods practised in 
propagating the Dahlia^ as by dividing the 
roots, cuttings and grafting ; the former is the 
most simple and generally applied, and the 
latter practised only when a number of plants 
are wanted from any superior variety. The 
■dividing the roots is performed as soon as the 
roots begin to germinate and show their eyes, 
which is generally in the latter part of March 
or beginning of April ; this, however, depends 
on the state of the heat in which the roots 
have been kept. The method is to take a 
sharp knife and divide the crown of the roots 
in such a manner that an eye or two, with the 
tubers, is preserved with each intended plant. 
This done, it is either to be potted or planted 
out for its final flowering, which will be de- 
scribed under the proper heads of " potting 
and planting out." 

To propagate the Dahlia from cuttings, a 
hot-bed should be made in the latter part of 
March, of one, two or more sashes, or a size 
convenient for the intended roots, either in 
the pit of a green-house, or what is better, a 
gai'den frame ; the bed may be made of a 
portion of hot horse manure and oak leaves, 
or if leaves are not at hand, manure will 



PROPAGATION. 23 

answer ; prepare the materials by mixing it 
well together into a round conical heap, to- 
cause fermentation. When it is all well fer- 
mented into a moderate sweet heat, (which; 
will be in a few days,) it may then be made 
into a bed of about three feet high under the 
frame, and two in the pit. The bed may be 
made by shaking the manure well together,, 
and making it six inches wider all round than 
the frame that is to cover it. The bed being- 
made, place the frame on it, and close it to 
draw up the heat ; when the heat rises, strew 
over the bed to the depth of three or four 
inches, old tanner's bark, light sandy mould,, 
or rotten decayed leaf mould. As soon as- 
the bed is in a moderate sweet temperature^ 
the roots may be placed in it thickly together^ 
in a regular manner, when they may be cov- 
ered over with light soil, two or three inches 
deep ; but care must be taken to leave the 
crowns above the surface, in order to prevent 
them from rotting, which, is often the case 
when covered too deep. Every care should 
be taken in giving air, and keeping the inter- 
nal air of the frame moderate ; if it has too 
much hot bottom heat, many of the tu- 
bers will rot, and the crowns more particu- 
larly. 

The principal object to be borne in mind 
ki the management of the frame and roots 



24 PROPAGATION. 

is, to keep a moist sweet internal tempem- 
ture, and a free circulation of air in the day, 
that the young shoots may have strength as 
they proceed in their growth ; when the sun 
shines strongly on the frame, it should be par- 
tially shaded, to prevent the direct rays of the 
sun from scalding the tender shoots. Care 
should also be taken to let off the dense steam 
that arises when the bed is first made, by 
slightly raising the lights at the back, day and 
night The crowns of the plants should be 
often sprinkled over to cause the eye to start 
into growth ; but care must be taken not to 
give too much water, as it will saturate the 
earth and rot the tubers before they begin to 
grow and throw out young fibres from the 
tubers. 

The roots of Dahlias are often potted en- 
tire, and plunged into a hot-bed, or placed in 
a green-house or hot-house, on the shelves, 
flues, or different places, where precisely the 
same manner of propagation may be follow- 
ed ; and any heat from 45° to 65° will an- 
swer for starting the roots into growth, with 
the above treatment. 

The method of propagation by cuttings, is 
to cut off the young shoots three joints long, 
at an eye above the crown, as from the eye 
left new shoots will be made in succession. 
When the cuttings are taken from the 



PROPAGATION, 25- 

plant, pot them singly in small pots, filled 
with maiden loam, with a little sand and leaf 
mould well decayed if at hand, or a portion 
of sandy peat, will answer a good purpose.. 
The object should be in selecting compost 
for this purpose, to choose that which wilL 
moderately retain a moisture to feed the cut- 
ting, and to be of consistency to drain off the 
water, and loose enough to allow the young 
fibrous roots to make a free growth in the 
soil. 

Having the bed in readiness, and the cut- 
tings three or four joints long, prepare the. 
compost by mixing and getting it into a mel- 
low fine texture. This done, prepare some 
shreds of old broken pots, by beating them 
into fine pieces ; then have a quantity of 
small thumb pots, into which place at the bot- 
tom about one third full of the shreds, and 
then fill the pot up to the crown with the 
compost, and giving it a gentle shake and 
lea.ving a crown in the centre ; the cuttings 
are then to be taken from the plant. The 
morning is the best time, because during the 
absence of the sun the leaves have not per- 
spired, as they do when it shines on the 
leaves, which give out much of their flow of 
sap during the hot part of the day. 

Prepare the cutting by taking it off with a. 
sharp knife, just under the joint in a clean 

a* 



26 PnOPAGATION. 

transverse manner ; then make a hole in the 
centre of the pot about half way through the 
compost, placing the cutting therein, and 
close the compost moderately about it, but 
not hard enough to break or prevent the 
young fibres from striking freely into it. The 
pots may then be gently watered with a fine 
rose pot or syringe ; -and when diy they may 
be placed in the frame, and the sashes closed, 
in order to prevent exhaustion taking place 
too freely ; when the sun shines on the fmme 
strongly, the glass may be covered with 
mats, in order to prevent their being scald- 
ed. A little air may also be given — and the 
general rule should be to keep the internal 
air of the frame in a moderate heat and 
moisture, sufficient to keep the leaves fresh 
and from drooping. On the contrary, if kept 
too much confined and moist, the leaves are 
very liable to be damped ; in this case, the 
ends of the leaves turn black, and putrefac- 
tion commences on the points of the leaves, 
which is, in a short time, if not counteracted, 
communicated to the stalk of cuttings, and 
finally decays the whole. When this hap- 
pens, it can be counteracted by cutting off the 
part of the leaf affected, with a sharp knife, 
and sprinkling over the amputated part fine 
dust of charcoal, which will if not too much 
affected, immediately allay the putrefaction. 



PROPAGATION. 27 

Another error often happens to cuttings, which 
is the over watering the soil, when it decays 
on the surface of the pot ; for this defect the 
only remedy is to cut off the under part at a 
joint, and put the cutting into a fresh pot of 
compost, but not the one from which it has 
been taken, which is in a great degree con- 
taminated by the decayed part of the cutting. 
The contrary to this is the cutting being 
wilted, owing to keeping it too dry, and 
to counteract which, it should be placed in 
bottom heat, under a bell-glass, which should 
be often taken off and wiped diy, in order to 
prevent it from damping off. 

The management of the cuttings in the 
frame, is simply to keep them well shaded in 
the middle of the day, so that their leaves do 
not flag, and give them sufficient air at the 
back of the frame, by tilting up the lights to 
keep them moderately dry ; the temperature 
of heat should be kept m.oderate from 60"* 
to65^ 

When the cuttings are rooted, which may 
be seen by the plants beginning to make their 
growth, and their leaves looking up fresh,, 
they may be taken from the frame and placed 
in the green-house or other places of the 
same temperature, and kept m.oderately wa- 
tered. 

Removing the Plants. — When the plants 



^8 PRUNING AND THINNING. 

are well established in the pots, they are then 
to be removed into larger sized pots, and 
managed in every way as before stated, until 
planted out in the garden. 



PLANTING OUT. 

The time of planting out the Dahlia for its 
flowering, must depend on the season and the 
different parts of the union in which it is to be 
planted. The only and best direction I can 
give is not to attempt it until the frosts are all 
over and the weather is sufficiently warm to 
insure its free rooting in a soil which should 
be previously dug and well pulverized. I am 
fully persuaded that, nine times out of ten, if 
the Dahlia was kept in a healthy vigorous 
state in the pots ten days later than usually 
recommended, and the ground well prepared 
during the time, great advantage would 
result from such management. The first of 
June, in the Middle and Northern States, may, 
I think, be considered a proper time for 
" planting out." 

Having chosen and prepared the ground, 
the planting may be performed by making 
holes in the earth intended for their recep- 
tion. The holes should be made sufficiently 
large and the earth broken very fine. The 



RAISING FROM SEED. 29 

plants may then be carefully turned out of the 
pots with their balls entire, the potsherds re- 
moved from the bottom, and the plant placed 
in the centre of the hole, when some fine 
earth may be drawn lightly around it. A gen- 
tle watering should then be given with a wa- 
ter-pot with a rose, to settle the earth well 
about the roots. 



RAISING NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED. 

In order to have Dahlias flower from the 
seed the first year, the seed should be sown 
early in March in a hot-bed, for the purpose 
of forwarding the plants previous to their be- 
ing planted in a flowering bed. For this pur- 
pose, a moderate hot-bed may be prepared^ 
of the same heat and temperature as the one 
recommended for starting the old roots inte 
growth ; indeed seedlings may be grown in 
the veiy same frame. Prepare for the sow- 
ing a quantity of soil, of about two thirds mel- 
low loam and one third leaf mould, which, in^ 
corporate well together, and sift through a 
coarse sieve ; fill a number of large pots or 
pans with the soil, and then sow the seed, 
which must be covered lightly over, and then 
give a gentle watering. The pots are then 
to be placed in the frame, and if the heat is. 



SV r.AISING FRO-1 SEED, 

not too violent, they may be plunged up to 
the rims ; the earth will require to be kept 
moderately moist, and in a few days the young 
plants will make their appearance. Great 
eare should be taken to give air of a fine day, 
and to keep a sweet, healthy internal atmos- 
phere. When they are grown into two or 
three rough leaves, the young plants may be 
potted off into small pots with the same com- 
post as recommended for sowing the seed. 
From the small pots the plants may be shifted 
into others of larger size, and in these they 
may remain until the time of plantmg out, 
which is the same as for those grown from 
cuttings, &c. Every means should be taken 
to forward the plants into flowering the first 
year, in order that those varieties which have 
the properties requisite to a good flower, be 
retained for the ensuing season, and those 
which are not worth securing, — and these will 
generally be ninetynine out of a hundred, — 
should be taken up and thrown away. In 
every part of culture the seedlings require 
precisely the same treatment as those propa- 
gated from cuttings, with the exception that 
they should be planted in such a situation 
that their flowering may be forwarded early as 
possible. 

In selecting seedlings those which are of a 
bright color, compact form, and full of petals 



CULTURE AND TRAINING. 3'! 

~^that are well fluted, and have round and 
even margins, — should be saved. In the se- 
lection, however, it must be understood that 
those approaching the nearest to the above 
qualities should be saved : for in many cases 
the Dahlia, like many other florists' flowers, 
does not arrive at its plenitude of petals, nor 
brilliant colors the fijrst year, but it will take 
two or three years to acquire perfection. 



GENERAL CULTURE AND TRAINING. 

The principal culture required for the Dah- 
lia in a healthy state, is to keep the soil about 
the roots in a moderately moist state, and not 
to allow any weeds or other plants to grow 
near it, to weaken and impoverish the soil in 
which it stands. The surface of the earth 
should be often hoed and raked, which gives 
an air of neatness, and is beneficial to the 
growth of the plant by attracting the dew and 
moist atmospheric air in hot weather ; indeed 
the surface soil should always be kept loose 
about the roots of the Dahlia, to favor a free 
access of air, moisture, and the genial influ- 
ence of the sun. 

Training.-— There are many modes adopt- 
ed of training the Dahlia, but they all tend to 
the same result, viz : to secure the plant 



■35i CULTURE AND TRAINING. 

from being broken down by high winds or 
sStorms, and to place the branches in such po- 
sition that the flowers show to good advantage. 
The most general mode of training is to place 
n strong stake of red cedar four or five feet in 
length near the plant, and train one shoot to it 
by tying it with bass matting or other strings 
as it progresses in growth. In doing this the 
string must not be tied too tightly round the 
stalk, which often wounds and sometimes cuts 
it asunder when it is exposed to the violence 
of the wind. To this mode of training is 
added that of spreading out the branches on 
trellis or against a wall. In many cases this 
mode has a very pretty effect, but in all cases 
it should be well done or the intended effect 
will be a failure. 

The neatest and best mode I have seen for 
training and protecting the Dahlia, is a neat, 
upright, wire frame, made of three upright 
pieces of stout wire about five or six feet in 
length, with a spindle-shaped piece of iron to 
«ach wire at the base to secure it into the 
ground ; these wires are girdled or bound 
with three m.ore of a smaller size to form a 
circular frame of about eighteen inches dia- 
meter, and the top is in the form of a funnel, 
being about two feet in diameter. These wire 
frames are very pretty when neatly painted 
green, for open lawns or grass plots, where 



PRUNING AND THINNING. 33 

the Dahlia deserves a place as a single object 
of the first order in autumnal decoration. 

When those supporting stands, or trellis 
frames are used, the method adopted with 
them is to plant the Dahlia and then place the 
stand over it and allowing it to grow up the 
centre in a natural manner. The plant should 
be regularly thinned so that the centre is not 
too much crowded, as the shoots in such case 
would be likely to become weak and slender ; 
and they must be tied to the frame in a neat 
and regular manner. 



PRUNING AND THINNING THE 
BRANCHES AND FLOWERS. 

The Dahlia should be timely and care- 
fully pruned, in order to render it a handsome, 
sightly plant. The first general rule for this, 
is to trim the plant to a single stem to two or 
three feet high, by cutting off all the lateral 
shoots. The top should be pruned or thinned 
out in a regular manner, so that the sun and 
air may have free access to the leaves and 
branches. In doing this, the pruner should 
be careful to form it into regular symmetry, 
which is of great advantage to its appearance. 
When the plants begin to flower, care should 
be taken to thin or pick off several of the buds 
4 



34 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

where they are thick, in order that one flower 
may not exhaust and impoverish the other. 
This is essentially necessary when fine show 
flowers are desired, as in that case every 
means should be taken to give vigor to the 
plant. 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 

The principal course to be pursued in the 
fall management of the Dahlia, is in keeping 
the ground clean, pruning off the superabund- 
ant leaves, and thinning out the branches. So 
soon as frost is expected, three or four inches 
of earth should be put around the roots of the 
plants, to protect them from being frozen, as 
is often the case at the early part of the sea- 
son, when neglected. Many persons take up 
the roots of Dahlias previous to the early 
frost, which I think all cultivators will pro- 
nounce to be wrong ; because the plant is ta- 
ken from the ground in a state of luxuriant 
growth, and when the root has not been ma- 
tured by the return of sap ; consequently, 
when it is taken from the ground, the tubers 
shrivel up, owing to their being too green : but 
when left in the ground after the stalk is cut 
down by the frost, the small fibres extract nu- 
triment from the ground, and feed and plump 
it into a mature state. 



WINTER PRESERVATION. 35 

, I have at different times taken Dahlia roots 
from the ground when in a full state of growth. 
In such cases, the method that I have pursued 
has been to cut off the stalk a foot or two 
above the crown of the roots, and replant them 
in a moist, shady situation, and there let them 
remain until the proper time of taking up Dah- 
lia roots for their final housing into winter 
quarters. 

TRESERVING THE ROOTS IN WINTER. 

There are many methods of preserving the 
roots of the Dahlia through the winter ; in- 
deed it forms a prominent item in the man- 
agement of this species of plants : for the 
many roots that are anti ially lost for want of 
proper management, in a great measure deters 
many persons from cultivating it more gener- 
ally. A failure in culture is always a princi- 
pal objection with the lovers of flowers to ex- 
tend their numbers ; and I unhesitatingly give 
it as my opinion, that it is a duty incumbent 
on every cultivator of plants and flowers, to 
give to every purchaser and amateur the best 
and most successful manner of treatment in 
their knowledge. Were this to become gen- 
eral among horticulturists, the result would be 
that by a successful treatment of one class of 
plants, the amateur would attempt another 



4b PRESERVING THE ROOTS 

with more zeal, feeling almost certain of suc- 
cess ; and instead of an abandonment for want 
of success, which is now often the case, a 
more ardent desire would be created, to ex- 
tend their cultivation. 

The principal thing to be considered, in 
preserving the roots of the Dahlia is, the pre- 
paring them in a proper manner in the fall, 
which is rarely done. In many cases the 
roots are taken from the ground in a growing 
state, before the tubers are matured, and con- 
sequently they are much shrivelled. On the 
other hand, roots are left in the ground often- 
times too late, and become fi'ozen ; and con- 
sequently are partly rotted before being taken 
into vrinter quarters. The object should be to 
have the roots well matured and ripened pre- 
vious to taking them from the ground for win- 
ter quarters. 

There are many modes of preserving the 
Dahlia through the winter ; the one most ge- 
nerally adopted is the drying of the roots 
when taken from the ground, and placing 
them on sand or other dry substance under 
the stage or the back part of the green-house. 
In this situation they are looked over at dif- 
ferent times during the winter and divested of 
any decaying parts ; as the rot of the stalks, 
or any part of the tubers that are beginning to 
decay, should be immediately cut off with a 



IN WINTER; 



37 



sharp knife, and the wound dried, that it may 
not begin to rot, and communicate disease in 
a manner to destroy the whole. 

Another method is to preserve the roots, 
after being dried, in boxes of dry sand, by 
placing them in layers and putting sand be- 
tween them ; the boxes are then kept in a 
room or situation that is not too warm and 
dry, or cold and moist. Being kept too warm, 
the eyes are liable to start into growth at an 
early and unnatural season, when the sun and 
air cannot have effect to mature the young 
shoots in a healthy vigorous manner ; if kept 
in a situation where the roots are frozen, it is 
certain they will be lost ; if too wet it is pro- 
bable they will be rotted, and if too dry the 
tubers will shrivel up. A moderate heat from 
40° to 50°, in a situation where the surround- 
ing air is not too moist or dry, is the most 
favorable for preserving the Dahlia. 

A very easy and good method is to take up 
the roots, cut off the stalks and dry them, then 
dig a pit in a dry sandy situation secure from 
the frost. The roots may then be carefully 
placed in the bottom of the pit, some dry sand 
placed over them, and the surface above their 
tops should be so managed, that the water may 
be readily let off. In this situation the roots 
may remain to the time of parting for planting, 
4* 



m 



WINTER PRESERVATION. 



when they may be treated as directed under 
the proper heads. 

Another, and I think the best, method of 
managing the Dahlia, is, to grow plants from 
cuttings in pots, in summer, to preserve them 
during the winter. In this method there is an 
advantage of removing the roots in an easy 
and speedy manner ; an advantage is also 
gained of protecting them late in the fall 
from frost or other causes of injury, as the 
pots can readily be placed in a frame or 
other convenient place for protection, 

Mr Samuel Sweetser, of Cambridgeport^ 
manages Dahlias in this manner to an excel- 
lent purpose : the plants are grown in mode- 
rate sized pots, which are taken into the 
green-house in the fall and placed away in a 
convenient place. If the earth about them is 
too moist they are placed in a dry place, and 
not removed until they are thoroughly dried, 
when they are placed away under the stage of 
a green-house, on shelves, or other places, 
until they are desired to be started into growth, 
when a little of the top soil may be taken 
from the pots and plunged into a frame or 
other place to vegetate. 



A GOOD FLOWER. 39 

CHAHACTiERISTICS OF A GOOD 
FLOWER. 

The Dahlia, like many other families of 
florist's flowers, has so much engaged the at- 
tention of the scientific florist, that a general 
rule is laid down as characteristic of a good 
flower ; the leading features of which are, 
form, size, and color. This is essentially ne- 
cessary, because, when any new varieties are 
obtained from seed, upon a due examination 
of a skilful florist, a conclusion may at once 
be decided upon whether it is worth saving or 
not. And besides, it is essentially necessary 
at prize-shows that some given rule of decision 
should predominate, whereby an undisputed 
decision can be formed satisfactorily to all 
parties. 

'' The form of a Dahlia," says Paxton, 
" when viewed from the front, should present 
one unbroken external circle, without any ir- 
regularity arising from the imperfect develop- 
ment of the petals, or from a want of con- 
formity in their shape or disposition ; each 
petal should approach as near as possible to a 
circular figure, without the slightest disposition 
to be pointed or acute, but perfectly round at 
the extremity, and very slightly concave ; but 
by no means so much so as to expose any 
part of the under side of it to view. This 



40 A GOOD FLOWER- 

form is said to be illustrated in the most per- 
fect manner by the flower which is termed the 
' Springfield Rival,' the petals of which are 
certainly very slightly curved ; but I consider 
that this flower, though so perfect in this res- 
pect, is defective in not being of a perfectly 
hemispherical figure. Any irregularity in the 
shape of the petals, such as their being notch- 
ed, quilled, convex, or too much concave, 
pointed, &c^, is at once sufficient to render the 
flower unfit for public exhibition and competi- 
tion ; and besides being of a perfect and uni- 
form shape, the petals should lie over each 
other in the most precise order and regularity, 
otherwise the flower will be defective in its 
general form and appearance. In some full- 
blowers, the eye or disk is evident, and no 
flower can be brought into compethion, with 
any chance of success,when it is thus defective. 
If a flower does not present a perfectly hem- 
ispherical figure when viewed from the side, 
or is not precisely the shape of either half of 
any globular body, it is imperfect; and in 
proportion as it deviates more or less from this 
form, it is in the same degree defective ; for . 
a flower may be too prominent, or too flat in 
the centre, either of which is a manifest de- 
ficiency." 

The color, in all cases, should be clear in 
the self-colored kind, as the " Countess of 



A GOOD FLOWER. 41 

Liverpool ;^' and when parti-colored or varie- 
gated, their colors should be distinctly striped, 
so that the pencilling is distinctly observable 
without being mixed with the ground color, 
which should also be clear. 

" The color of a flower, whatever it may 
be, should be rich, clear, and distinct, as has 
before been mentioned ; variegated flowers, 
such as the York and Lancaster, (the leading 
seedling at the Sheffield Dahlia-show last sea- 
son,) should have the stripes of each color 
definite and clear ; that is, one color should 
not mingle with or merge into another, but the 
edge or boundary of each should be preserved 
distinct, and there should be no spots, irregu- 
lar blotches, or cloudings. 

" I cannot attempt to prescribe rules for 
size, neither is it at all necessary or desirable ; 
for I consider that a flower cannot be too large, 
provided it is well and correctly formed, and 
the color perfect and agreeable ; these char- 
acters, however, are very generally deficient 
in large blooms, which are usually too flat, in- 
stead of being prominent in the centre, and of 
a hemispherical figure ; the petals are like- 
wise generally coarse and irregular, and the 
colors are seldom rich and clear. But where 
there are none of these imperfections or de- 
ficiencies, large flowers are decidedly prefer- 
able to small ones ; and, if perfect in other 



42 CONCLUSION. 

respects, the larger the flowers are, the gi^at- 
er success will attend them when brought into 
competition, and the more valuable will be the 
sorts that produce them." 



CONCLUSION. 

After what has been said on the culture- 
and treatment of the Dahlia, I cannot refrain 
from occupying a small space in commenda- 
tion of the more geneml cultivation of so 
splendid an embellishment to the flower gar-* 
den. I am well aware that the amateurs and 
professional florists will spare neither time 
nor expense within their means-, to obtain and 
improve every variety into an endless num- 
ber of so beautiful a flower. It is greatly 
to be desired that the introduction of the 
splendid varieties now extant, may hereafter 
grace every cottage garden, and give a new 
feature to rural scenery, by embellishing the 
shrubbery and fore-grounds of every dwelling 
by the road sides of country residences ; for 
certain it is that no flower possesses that bril- 
liant display of variegated beauties as the 
Dahlia of the season. 

I was ever of an opinion, that an improved 
taste for a flower garden around the country 
cottage, is a sure indication of its intelligent 



CONCLUSION. 43 

and industrious inmates ; for the flower gar- 
den in such cases is most generally cultiva- 
ted by the joint efforts of the family, from the 
aged parent to the lisping child who culls 
the wild flowers that so gracefully margin the 
groves and way sides in infantile extacy to 
decorate their little select parterre. The 
flower garden, too, imbues the mind with 
the principles of moral rectitude ; for there 
is a charm in flowers that admits of no ob- 
scene features to mar our pleasure, or any 
disagreeable apprehension, by a close study 
or minute investigation into their symmetrical 
beauties or finely tinselled colors ; they are 
the harbingers of pleasure, and elicit the 
smiles of approbation from the hoary age of 
maturity to the untaught prattling in the arms 
of its guardian parent. 

There are many who will say, " what is 
the use of flowers ;" as if they demand no 
other respect nor attention from their first 
giver, than merely fantastical ornaments to 
please the giddy and thoughtless observer. 
I always pity any rational person for such as- 
sertions, for certain it is, there can be no feel- 
ing of gratitude to the first giver of such 
beauties, nor any estimation of their value as 
being so very essential to our comfort and 
delight. Let me ask the orchardist what can 
form a more beautiful feature in the land- 



44 CONCLUSION, 

scape, than an apple orchard in full bloom, 
or how deeply would he regret a general 
failure of its fruit ? Can the fruit be pro- 
duced without the flower ? We must cer- 
tainly answer in the negative ; and the same 
with all our comforts derived from the vege- 
table kingdom. 

An improved state of Horticulture is most 
generally an improvement to the value of 
landed property, and in no way can the land- 
lord realize the benefits of a good tenant 
more than in an improved state of the ground 
around the dwelling. I think a good garden 
in most cases may be considered as indica- 
tive of a good tenant ; for those who culti- 
vate the vine or fruit tree, in and around their 
dwellings, are always desirous to partake of 
its fruits. The tree that inhabits such places, 
is considered as coeval with the inmates and 
is cherished as such ; — the expanding of the 
leaf — the bud and flower — the growing and 
maturing of the fruit — and every gradation 
from the circulation of the sap to the fall of 
the leaf, and the fruit, is watched and guarded 
with a parental care, and no intruders are al- 
lowed to retard its progress unnoticed by its 
owner. 

Such floricultural decorations as the Dahlia 
always ensure improvement, for their gay 
and lively appearance at once attract the at- 



CONCLUSION. 45 

tention of the cultivator to any minor objects 
that are disorderly or disagreeable around 
them, and which demand improvement, and 
very often a thorough adjustment, so that ev- 
ery thing around the plants may correspond 
with their beauty . 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP DAHLIAS, 



Ft. high. 
WHITE. 

Bride of Abydos, fine white from 4 to 5 

Exemplar, Widnall's, white, cupped petals & 

YELLOW. 

Golden Sovereign, Headley's, rich gold yellow, per- 
fect bloom 4 to 5 
Jackson's Rival, large yellow 4 to 5 
Sulphurea elegans, sulphur colored 4 to 5 

PARTI-COLORED- 

Mary, Dodd's, fine white, laced with rosy lilac 3 to 4 

Mary Queen of Scott's, Dodd's, clear white, tipped 

with purple 3 to 4 

Gem, or Royal Adelaide, white, edged with rose 4 

Mrs Broadwood, white, purple lips, with dark centre 
Conqueror of Europe, blush, shaded with pink 4 to 6 
Urania, pink, with white centre 4 to 6 

Village Maid, white, edged with pink 3 to 4 

King of Dahlias, Widnall's, pure white, edged with 

rose pink 3 

Q,ueen of Dahlias, white, edged with purple 4 to 6 

Widnall's Rainbow, purple, shaded with crimson 

and red g 

LILAC. 

Beauty of Camberwell, rosy lilac 4 to 6 

Lilac Perfection, fine lilac, excellent form 3 to 4 

Inwood's Ariel, mottled lilac, fine 4 to 5 

Unicorn, Gaines, rosy lilac 4 to 5 

PURPLE. 

Dennisii, fine ruby purple 5 to 6 

Lord Liverpool, fine dark purple 5 to 6 

British Q,ueen, fine rosy purple 3 to 4 

Warminster's Rival, bright purple 4 to 5 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST. 47 

Ft high. 
SCARLET. 

Countess of Liverpool, superb scarlet, fine form 6 to 7 

Douglas' Glory, fine scarlet, 5 

CRIMSON. 

Mazeppa, Thorburn's, shaded light crimson, fine 4 

MAROON. 

Granta, Widnall's, fine cupped petals 4 



NEW VARIETIES. 

Allen's Flora, blush, spotted and shaded with crim- 
son 5 
Ariadne, Brown's, yellow, shaded with brown 4 to 6 
Beauty of Bedford, Mayles, purple shaded 4 to 5 
Blandina, Dray's, white 4 
Conductor, Widnall's 
Countess of Mansfield, Henderson's, puce and 

white, cupped petals 4 

Corinne, Brown's, white veined, purple and creamy 3 

Diana, Elphinstone's, orange, seedling 1837 
Duke of Wellington, Dodd's, orange 4 to 5 

Fowler's Q,ueen Victoria, white, tipped with violet, 

cupped 5 to 6 

General Washington, Elphinstone's, dark purple, 

cupped petals 3 to 4 

Grant Thorburn, violet purple, cupped petals 4 to 5 

Hope, Nevill's shaded rose, cupped superb 4 

Horsham Rival, Elphinstone's, seedling 1837 
Knight's Victoria, crimson extra 
Lady Dartmouth, Widnall's, white, margin bluish 

lilac 3 to 4 

Marquis of Northampton, Elphinstone's mottled 

ruby, cupped petals 4 

Maria Edgeworth, or Clio Perfecta, primrose, lip- 
ped and spoiled with purple 4 
Middlesex Rival, puce, cupped petals 4 
Mrs Ashley, Dray's, white, violet tipped 3 



48 DESCRIPTIVE LIST. 

Ft. high, 

Ne Plus Ultra, Widnall's, fine & 
Rival Scarlet, Stafford's, fine, cupped petals 4 
Rienzi, Widnall's, crimson, beautiful cupped pe- 
tals 3 
Royal Standard, Whale's, rich rosy crimson 4 
Reliance, Widnall's, bright orange, margined with 

buff 4 

Rosetta, Brown's, shade rose, cupped petals 4 

Sarah, Brown's, nankeen quilled 4 

Sulphurea elegans, Jones's, fine sulphur 4 

Suffolk Hero, Girling's, deep crimson, cupped 3 to 4 
Springfield Rival 

Stone's Yellow Perfection, 3 

Topaz, Girling's, fine yellow, superb 3 
Zeno, Elphinstone's, seedling 1837 

Beauty of Cornwall, purple, tipped with v/hite 6 
Champion of England, Elphinstone's, seedling 1837 

Conqueror of Sussex, carmine 4 

Countess of Burlington, Skiver's, white 3 to 4 

Criterion, Douglass, white, margined lilac 4 
Duke of Sussex, Alman's, crimson purple, cupped 

petals 4 

Exquisite, Girling's, amber, cupped jjetals 4 

Giraffe, Nutting's, white, edged with pnrple 5 

Glory of the West, scarlet, globular and cupped 5 

Innovator, Wells's, yellow, edged with red 3 

Lady Webster, Knights's, crimson 4 
Mark Anthony, seedling 
Mrs Cadwallader, Elphinstone's, rose, seedling 

1837 
Marquis of Northampton, Elphinstone's, mottled 

ruby, cupped petals 4 
Pothecarey's Lord Nelson, white, laced with pur- 
ple 3 ot 4 
Polyphemus, purple and crimson 
Purple Perfection, Squibb's, 

Springfield Major, bright crimson, cupped petals 5 

Spors Wormley Star, fine, light scarlet 4 

Venus, Bennett's, shaded rose, copped petals 4 



CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 



Most of the different varieties of the Cactus 
are natives either of the West Indies or South 
America, where the primitive kinds are found 
growing on and in the chasms of rocks, and 
on old dead wood, where they often subsist for 
months without water. Indeed, there are few 
tribes of plants that will live and endure so 
long a period of drought as theCactus and its 
natural families of the Aloe, and those plants 
which are denominated succulents, — as nature 
seems to have purposely designed them to en- 
dure a recess of moisture, by their organiza- 
tion ; being of a fat, fleshy texture, covered 
with a thick, tough, leather-like coat or bark, 
which does not respire, or at least admit of 
respiration so freely as deciduous plants ; and 
hence, the plants being full of sap, or perhaps 
more properly a superfluous fluid, intended as 
a reservoir to sustain them when exigencies 
(as a long drought) require such provision ; 
without which they could not subsist. 
5* 



50 CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 

The natural habit of the Cactece being a 
spinous and rough surface on ahxiost every 
part of them, has in a great measure, hitherto 
deterred the lovers of flowers from bestowing 
that pains on their culture that other families 
of flowers, such as iheCamellia and Geranium 
have received : but their beautiful flowers are 
beginning to attract the attention of amateurs, 
and it is little to be doubted that ere long the 
Cactus will become a general favorite of the 
green-house, parlor, and every department of 
floriculture. 

The mode of cultivation is to obtain new 
varieties by seed and cross impregnation, by 
mixing the pollen of one variety with another, 
by which the beautiful varieties of Jenkinsonii, 
Ackerjnanii, Malisonia, and many others 
(bearing the personal names of the lovers of 
the tribe) have been produced. The general 
mode of propagation adopted is, by cuttings 
of the leaf or stem of the plant, which in the 
speciosa, Jenkinsonii, and those kinds hav- 
ing joints, are cut at the joint; but those 
kinds which have long spaces between the 
joints, as the speciosissima, cylindricus, and 
the like tall growing kinds, may be cut into 
short pieces at the eye or bud. The prepar- 
ing the cuttings of the Cactus for insertion into 
a compost for stricking, is something difierent 
from almost any other kinds of plants ; which 



CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 51 

require the cuttings to be inserted shortly after 
being taken from the plants, that respiration 
may not too much exhaust the moisture in 
them, and which will in a great measure 
weaken their growth ; whereas the Cactus, on 
the contrary, requires the cuttings to be laid 
on a dry shelf, or over the flue of a green- 
house, so that the wound may be contracted 
and dried up. This treatment is necessary to 
all kinds of succulent plants, to avoid their 
rotting off at the wound, if water is applied 
when potted. The cuttings being thus pre- 
pared, and the wound thoroughly dried up, 
(which will be in a week or ten days after 
their preparation,) they may be put into pots 
or pans in the usual manner of putting in 
cuttings. 

The best compost for striking Cactus is 
4-5ths of coarse sand and l-5th of well rotted 
leaf mould, two or thee years old ; into which 
they may be inserted two or three inches deep. 
The cuttings being potted, they may be placed 
over the flue, or in any dry, warm part of the 
house, and slightly syringed of a fine sunny 
morning, or of an evening when the fire-heat 
is sufficient to dry the leaf in a short time ; 
water lying long on the leaves in this pro- 
cess, in many cases rots the entire cutting ; 
and most generally, at all events, it decays 
close to the surface of the soil in the pot. 



52 CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 

When the cuttings begin to root they may be 
moderately watered, and when sufficiently 
rooted, potted off in the following manner, for 
flowering plants. 

The best compost for potting the cuttings 
or young plants of Cactus that I am acquainted 
with, is, about three parts of decomposed leaf 
mould, three or four years old, and one part 
of coarse sand. If a small portion of very 
fine ground bone dust is added, it will greatly 
facilitate the growth of the young plants. The 
method of potting is to prepare a quantity of 
well-broken potsherds, beaten very fine, which 
are to be put at the bottom of the pot, about 
an inch thick ; the soil is then to be used by 
placing it lightly in the pots until they are 
about three fourths full ; the plants are then 
to be taken gently from the pots with a sharp 
pointed stick, then to be placed on the surface, 
the roots spread in a regular manner, and 
earth closed over them sufficient to cover 
them to a proper depth. After potting off, two 
or three shiftings are required in this tribe of 
plants as in most others, when the pots are 
full of roots. 

Mode of Culture. — The culture of the Cac- 
tus has been very much improved within a 
few years ; indeed, the system has been en- 
tirely reversed from the former method of 
growing it in a dry, harsh, sandy soil or com- 



CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 53 

post, to that of a light, rich soil, that shall be 
porous enough, with drainage to let off the 
superfluous water before it saturates and rots 
the roots, or the stem just above the surface 
of the soil ; — hence, by the improved mode, 
this tribe of plants is grown and flowered in 
as good a manner and as large plants in one 
year as was formerly done in three or four. 
The present mode, then, consists in keeping 
the plants in a healthy growing state from the 
time they are first rooted as a cutting, until 
they are large enough for flowering plants ; 
when a different process is taken, to check the 
flow of sap and growth of the plant, in order 
to set the buds thickly on the leaves. Although 
the Cactus will do well in a green-house, and 
is by many growers considered as strictly a 
green-house plant, it does much better if man- 
aged as a hot-house plant, while in a growing 
state, at 60° of fire heat in the winter quar- 
ters, as with proper management it may be 
kept in a growing state during the season. 
When grown in such heat, the plants should 
be syringed every other evening, in a moder- 
ate manner, so that the moisture may quickly 
dry up and not lie long on the leaves, which 
is very injurious to its health and well being. 
The watering may be done with the Cactus as 
with other plants, when in a growing state, 
namely : — whenever the earth is dry in the 



54 CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 

pots, it may be moderately refreshed with wa- 
ter, but care must be taken to do so in such a 
degree that the earth shall not be saturated so 
as to be always moist, and thus rot off the 
plant, as before hinted. In every other de- 
partment of culture the Cactus requires good 
treatment until it is grown to a sufficient size 
for flowering, when an entirely different treat- 
ment may be given it. In the fall the plants 
intended for flowering may be placed on dry 
shelves in the green-house, where they are to 
remain without water, in order to set the flower- 
buds in a firm manner. The plants are to 
remain in this situation until New Year's, or 
even the beginning of March, when they are 
again to be taken into a warmer place, and 
treated in every manner as before directed 
for growing plants. 

That a tribe of plants possessing the vari- 
ous traits of foliage, flowers, &c. that are nat- 
ural to the Cactus, will at some future period 
engage much of the attention of the amateur 
and lover of flowers, cannot be doubted : for 
although in regard to appearance of foliage 
they cannot be said to vie with the Camellia 
and many other families that find a place un- 
der glass during the winter, yet there is a 
beautiful natural order in their nerves, and 
the spines or armature with which nature 
has endowed this family of plants, with which 



CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 55 

to guard against the intrusion of animals and 
other invaders, that most generally, when once 
made acquainted with their prickly coats, 
khey are careful how they again come in contact 
with so formidable a tribe of the vegetable 
kingdom. Indeed, in many cases, the tall 
growing kinds of Cactus and the American 
Aloe are used to guard off cattle, and as a 
barricading division of lands. 

The flowers of most kinds of the Cactus 
are generally a recompense for their plain ap- 
pearance of foliage, for in many .cases they 
are beautiful, and mostly pretty. Their 
color is of many hues, from that of a bright 
scarlet, as in the speciosissima, to a beautiful 
white or cream color, as in the grandiflorus, 
or night-flowering varieties. In order to give 
some explanation of the color and habit of the 
plants of this natural family, I shall preface 
the descriptive list to follow, with the natural 
ports and habit of the different sections of the 
family, by giving a full description of a natu- 
ral plant in a growing state, which may be 
considered as a type of each section in order, 
as they follow the different divisions. In 
order to facilitate this end, I shall use such 
terms as seem to be the most intelligible 
to the general reader. In this case I must, 
therefore, in a measure deviate from the gen- 
eral rules of terminology of botany ; which 



bB CULTURE IN ROOMS. 

will, I hope, be considered as no intrusion on 
the science, more particularly when it must 
be evident that the tenor of this book is to 
lend some aid to those who are desirous to be- 
come acquainted with the culture and beauty 
of this family of plants. 



CULTURE OF THE CACTUS IN ROOMS. 

The Cactus does admirably well in the par- 
lor or warm dry rooms, dry heat agreeing 
better with the Cactus than almost any other 
tribe of plants ; but care must be taken that 
they are not allowed to be frozen ; for if this 
once happens, it is certain death. 

The management is simply this. In the 
winter months, keep the earth moderately 
dry, and at no time over-water them, as this 
is the season for them to lie dormant and form 
their flower-buds. When the spring advances, 
about the first weeks in April more water may 
be applied and the roots kept moderately 
moist, but not too wet. The situation chosen 
should be where they may receive a full share 
of the sun, and if possible in the warmest 
part of the room. The guide given for the 
green-house, will answer, in eveiy particular, 
for the parlor. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 57 



GRAFTING THE CACTUS. 

The grafting of the weaker kinds of the 
Cactus on the gross growing ones, is now be- 
coming very general among amateurs, as that 
of engrafting the truncatus on the Napoleonis 
and the triangularis. 

The operation is performed in various ways, 
as by taking off the stalk to be grafted, trans- 
versely, and inserting the graft by making an 
incision into the stem, with the point of the 
knife downwards, in the angle. The cutting 
is prepared by cutting off a joint of the plant, 
and paring off each side of the bark in the 
form of a wedge. The graft is then inserted 
in the incision and the cavities closed up with 
wax, tallow, or other pliable substance, to keep 
out the wet and air from the part where the 
scion and stalk are united. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

I THINK it may be confidently asserted, that 
this beautiful tribe of plants will ere long be- 
come a favorite with the parlor connoisseur ; 
for certain it is that many varieties produce 
flowers that will compare in delicate and rich 
6 



58 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

colors with the most choice plants of the green- 
house or parlor. The great objection to the 
Cactus has been, the monotony of the appear- 
ance of the whole tribe, as their habit is such 
that the trunk, branches and leaves are all 
similar in surface and armature. But if this 
tribe- does not engross our attention with lively 
and vivifying shades of green foliage, as the 
Camellia, and many other families of plants, 
the inquiring observer may realize a natural 
lesson from its peculiar habits, of the most 
satisfactory and pleasing nature. 

The family of Cactus may be considered as 
the " armed part of the vegetable kingdom ;" 
for most plants of this kind are covered with 
spines or aculei on the surface of their leaves, 
which are a safeguard and protection from the 
intrusion and damages of the animal king- 
dom. Taking this beautiful economy of na- 
ture into consideration, the attention of the 
most superficial observer must at once be ab- 
sorbed in its utility ; for without such protec- 
tion, so fragile and brittle is the whole family, 
that the least intrusion of the wild animals of 
its native country would not only mutilate, but 
entirely destroy the whole plant. Allowing 
this economy in the structure of the Cactus, 
let us now examine the many variations and 
shapes of its peculiar habits. Some we find 
are of an erect and stately habit, as the albi- 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 59 

Jlorus and peruvianus ; these are entirely con- 
trasted by those of a pendulous habit, as the 
flagelliformis, hanging down in so fragile a 
manner, whilst others take an intermediate 
stature, of a branching nature, as the C. spe- 
ciosissimus, &c., natural to them : hence, while 
one variety of this family grows erect, the 
other, on the contrary, descends. In addition 
to these contrary positions, we are presented 
with a medium habit in the speciosus, Jenkin- 
sonii, Ackermanii, &c., which branch out in 
a regular manner from their side shoots,which 
are, generally, flat-leaved, trunks margined 
with indentations, like the teeth of a saw, — 
similar to the Cactus Jenkinsonii, extensis, 
and like similar characters. There is also a 
nice and natural regularity of the different 
spines, which are in dotted turfs over the sur- 
face of the leaves, of different colors — some 
black and some yellow. The Opuntia micro- 
dasis is a beautiful specimen of foliage, being 
tufted over with regular rows of yellow spines 
on a beautiful green color. Others, as the 
upright growing kinds, have regular rows or 
lines of spines of five, six, or seven angles ; 
and some, as the Opwn/ia5, are irregularly dot- 
ted over on flat leaves. The flowering is also 
various ; as some open only of a night, as the 
C. grandiflorus and C. triangularis ; the latter 
plant has been flowered lately at the fine es- 



60 TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 

tablishment of Mr Gushing, Belmont place, 
by Mr Haggertson, and was certainly a splen- 
did specimen of so rare a flower. To these 
may be added those which flower in the day, 
as the C. speciosissimus, Jenkinsonii^ and 
many other beautiful varieties. Indeed, there 
is not a plant among them but deserves cul- 
ture and the best attention of the amateur and 
florist. 

I quote the following article from Mcin- 
tosh's beautiful work on the Green-House, 
which I hope will be useful in this place. 



TREAT BIENT IN THE HOUSE. 

" Succulent plants, so far from requiring 
the temperature of a stove, as erroneously- 
supposed by many, are most certainly much 
more injured by too high a temperature than 
by being kept too cool. If we except the 
genera Stapelia and EuphorMa, and a few of 
the CactecB, all others are much better when 
kept in a cool, dry, airy green-house, than any- 
where else ; nay, a cold pit, if not in a damp 
situation, will be a very proper habitation for 
many of them ; and not a few, particularly 
of the families Sempervivum and Mesemhrp' 
anthemuniy stand in the open borders of our 



TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 61 

gardens during the most rigorous frosts with 
which we have of late years been visited, 
with the exception of the winter of 1837-8. 
Another very erroneous notion, which till 
of late has very generally prevailed, is, that 
succulents should be planted in lime rubbish, 
gravel, or similar porous matter, with a view 
to prevent them from growing too rapidly, and 
also, that they should scarcely have any wa- 
ter given to them. The truth of the matter 
is, that this singular and interesting tribe of 
plants have been long neglected in this coun- 
try, and placed in situations in the green-house 
where little attention has been paid to them ; 
and many of them, notwithstanding this treat- 
ment, have continued to live thus disregarded 
and unnoticed, till their splendor, or the fra- 
grance of their bloom, arrested, for a time, 
the attention of the owner : then they may 
have been brought into a more favorable situ- 
ation till their flowers had faded, when, for the 
most part, they were consigned again to their 
old situation. Plants requiring so little atten- 
tion as this to keep them in existence, and the 
only fear of losing them being from an excess 
of damp, led the indolent gardener to plant 
them where they were not likely to suffer 
from this cause, and at the same time rid him- 
self of the trouble of attending to them. — 
Plants may exist for a long time under very 
6* 



62 TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 

bad treatment ; but plants so circumstanced 
cannot be expected to flower well, or to attain 
any very extraordinary habit, either of beauty 
or singularity. But the same species of plants, 
treated in a more rational and favorable man- 
ner, will develop all their beauties and sin- 
gularities to us in return. 

Succulent plants, in general, do not require 
much water during winter, when they are in 
a dormant state ; but during spring and sum- 
mer, when they are growing vigorously, they 
require as large a share of that element as 
any other plants (not exactly aquatic.) Dur- 
ing winter, care must be taken that they are 
not over-watered, and also that the house 
that they are grown in is water-tight, for 
many of the more delicate would suffer if 
rain drops were to fall into their centre, and 
more particularly those that are kept in a low 
temperature. A good way to supply many 
plants of this description with water is, by 
standing the pots in pans of water ; but this 
is only to be understood as applicable to the 
most robust-growing sorts during spring and 
summer ; and to the more delicate ones occa- 
sionally. During spring and summer, they 
may be syringed over their tops once or twice 
a week ; but during autumn and winter, this 
should be discontinued. 

Air cannot be too freely admitted to them 



TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 63 

at all seasons, both in winter and summer ; 
and during the latter period, the side lights of 
the succulent house, at least that portion of it 
dedicated to the families Semperviimm, Cras- 
sula, Mesemhryanthemum, &c. should be alto- 
gether removed : that portion in which Stape- 
lia, CactecB^ &c., are kept, should only be thus 
openly exposed in very warm days ; but a 
partial degree of ventilation must be given 
them upon all fitting occasions. 

A watchful eye must be kept that the 
smaller and more delicate do not suffer from 
damp, and that cuttings of those apparently 
likely to die or become unsightly be put in, 
for many of the more curious are not long- 
lived. Frequent cleaning the surface of the 
mould in the pots ; examining them minutely 
for the detection of insects, which they are 
liable to, particularly the scale, white bug, and 
green fly ; rubbing off the former with a 
sponge and soft soap, washing the second off 
with clean water applied by the engine, and 
using tobacco smoke, or Scotch snuff sprinkled 
over them, when damp from previous wa- 
tering, will completely rid them of these 
enemies. 

There are two curious and often fatal dis- 
eases to which succulent plants are subject, 
particularly the genus Opuntia, and some 
other of the CactecB ; and these are admirably 



64 TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 

described by M. Thiery de Menonville, who 
travelled, many years since, through the Span- 
ish settlements of South America. These 
diseases are termed by him the gangrene and 
la dissolution. The former of these is af 
frequent occurrence, beginning with a black 
spot, which spreads till the whole plant ulti- 
mately dies. The latter disease is very ap- 
propriately called la dissolution., and is much 
more serious in its effects than the former : it 
is described by the late eminent Sir James 
Edward Smith, in 'Introduction to Physio- 
logical and Systematic Botany,' as follows : — ■ 
' This seems to be a sudden decay of the vi- 
tal principle, like that produced in animals by 
lightning or strong electricity. In an hour's 
time, from some unknown cause, a joint, a 
whole branch, or sometimes an entire plant of 
the nopal (the Indian name for the Ojmntia co- 
chinillifera or Indian fig), changes from a 
state of apparent health to a state of putrefac- 
tion or dissolution. One minute its surface is 
verdant and shining ; the next it turns yellow, 
and all its brilliancy is gone. On cutting into 
this substance, the inside is found to have lost 
all cohesion, being quite rotten. The only 
remedy in this case is speedy amputation be- 
low the diseased part.' Both these diseases 
are not unfreqently observed in collections in 
this country, and if the former be not arrested 



TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 65 

in its progress by amputating the branch upon 
which it appears before the disease has ex- 
tended too far, the consequence would be the 
loss of the plant in a day or two. 

Some of the continental cultivators of these 
plants have grown them to a large size within 
a short space of time, excluding the air by 
placing a tall bell-glass over the plant, sup- 
plying it with abundance of water and heat in 
the stove, and also by placing them in a very 
warm hot-bed ; thus stimulated to the utmost 
extent, the plant swells out to a large size ; 
but care must be taken that this humidity be 
not carried too far, for fear of rotting the 
plant. 

In regard to temperature, most succulent 
plants will stand uninjured when the thermom- 
eter falls to fortyfive degrees, or even lower, 
but many of them will also stand several de- 
grees of frost with impunity. Excepting the 
Cactece^ Siapelia, and Euphorbia, all other 
succulents are rather injured by artificial heat 
than benefited. They will stand any degree 
of sun heat, but fire heat is a very different 
thing. 

The late Mr Haworth, in his ' Supplemen- 
tum Plantarum Succulentarum,' speaking of 
the culture of succulent plants, transcribes the 
following passage from Miller, a passage 
which, he says, ' is worthy of being recorded 



Q6 TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 

in letters of gold ; and more especially,' he 
adds, (and we may add so also) ' as the truth 
it inculcates, or rather complains of, still con- 
tinues to exist,' The quotation alluded to is 
to the following effect : ' At which time (Oc- 
tober) you should remove them (the succu- 
lents) into the conservatory, placing them as 
near the windows as possible at first, letting 
them have as much free open air as the sea- 
son will permit, by keeping the loindoics open 
whenever the weather is good. And now you 
must begin to abate your waterings, giving it 
to them sparingly ; but you should not suffer 
the leaves to shrink for loant of moisture, 
which is another extreme some people run 
into for want of a little observation ; for when 
they are suffered to shrink (not die gradually 
away) for want of sufficient moisture to keep 
their vessels distended, they are rendered in- 
capahle of discharging this moisture whenever 
they receive it again.'' 

' I humbly hope,' adds Mr. Haworth, ' this 
golden passage from our great horticulturist 
will have more effect over those who read it, 
than all my own feeble pen has heretofore 
stated to the same effect. For, at this en- 
lightened period, it requires but a moderate 
share of philosophy to allow that air and ex- 
ercise, and a due supply of warmth and food, 
are all essential requisites towards the health- 

[LofC. 



TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 67 

ful support of every organised being, whether 
of the animal or vegetable kingdom. And 
air and the rustling winds are the exercise of 
plants ; and humidity and water are at least 
the vehicles which convey their food ; and 
warmth the medium which adapts them to re- 
ceive it in a salutary way ; although the de- 
gree of warmth actually requisite is as differ- 
ent for the different species as the different 
climates over which the Creator has been 
please to distribute them, — by no means at 
random, but all in harmoniously beautiful or- 
der. And those which it has pleased their 
great Architect to place in equinoctial lati- 
tudes appear to be more adapted to the recep- 
tion of nutriment above ground, by absorption 
from the air, in the dewy places of their na- 
tivity , than those whose absorbing orifices are 
less capaciously expanded in more temperate 
countries ; or in those still more chilly regions 
which approach the confines of perpetual 
snow. There the great business of nutrition 
appears to be almost wholly from the root. 
And hence, perhaps, the impatience which 
Alpine plants evince to heat, which actually 
exhausts and overpowers them. 

' O Jehovah ! in sapiential ea feeisti,' " 



68 CONCLUSION. 



CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion to this little treatise I insert a 
quotation on the beauty of flowers from the 
beautiful and masterly pen of the reflecting 
Hervey ; his " Meditations on the Flower 
Garden," is certainly one of the most beauti- 
ful delineations of the simple elegance and 
utility of flowers ; and should be read by 
every beginner in the study of this branch of 
nature's economy, as the best text and guide 
in ascertaining the intrinsic value of plants, 
and their admirable adaptation to the pleasure 
and satisfaction of those whom a refined taste 
leads to their culture. 

He thus describes their beauty in his " Re- 
flections on a Flower Garden" : 

" What a surprising variety is observable 
among the flowery tribes ! How has the 
bountiful hand of Providence diversified these 
nicest pieces of his workmanship ; adding 
the charms of an endless novelty to all the 
other perfections ! A constant uniformity 
would soon render the entertainment tiresome 
or insipid ; therefore every species is formed 
on a separate plan, and exhibits something 
entirely new. The fashion spreads not from 
family to family ; but every one has a mode 
of its own, which is truly original. The most 



CONCLUSION. 69 

cursoiy glance perceives an apparent differ- 
ence, as well as a peculiar delicacy, in the 
airs and habits, the attitude and lineaments of 
every distinct class. 

Some rear their heads with majestic mien, 
and overlook, like sovereigns or nobles, the 
whole parterre. Others seem more moderate 
in their aims, and advance only to the middle 
stations ; a genius turned for heraldry might 
term them the gentry of the border. While 
others, free from all aspiring views, creep un- 
ambitiously on the ground, and look like the 
commonalty of the kind. Some are inter- 
sected with elegant stripes, or studded with 
radiant spots. Some affect to be s^enteelly 
powdered, or neatly fringed ; while others arc 
plain in their aspect, unaffected in their dress, 
and content to please with a naked simplicity. 
Some assume the monarch's purple ; some look 
most becoming in the virgin's white ; but black, 
doleful black, has no admittance into the 
wardrobe of Spring. The weeds of mourn- 
ing would be a manifest indecorum, when na- 
ture holds an universal festival. She would, 
now, inspire none but delightful ideas ; and 
therefore always makes her appearance in 
some amiable suit.* Here stands a warrior, 
clad with crimson ; there sits a magistrate, 
robed in scarlet ; and yonder struts a pretty 

* —Nunc formosissimus annus.— Virg. 
7 



70 CONCLUSION. 

fellow, that seems to have dipped his plumes 
in the rainbow, and glitters in all the gay col- 
ors of that resplendent arch. Some rise into 
a curious cup, or fall into a set of beautiful 
bells. Some spread themselves in a swelling 
tuft, or crowd into a delicious cluster. In 
some, the predominant strain softens by the 
gentlest diminutions, till it has even stole away 
from itself. The eye is amused at the agree- 
able delusion ; and we wonder to find our- 
selves insensibly decoyed into quite a differ- 
ent lustre. In others, you would think the 
fine tinges were emulous of pre-eminence. 
Disdaining to mingle, they confront one an- 
other with the resolution of rivals, determined 
to dispute the prize of beauty ; while each is 
improved by the opposition into the highest 
vivacity of complexion." 



A LIST OF CACTUS, 

AT JIR. 8. SWEETSERS, CAMBRIDGEPOR 

1839. 

No. I. Echinoeactus, Ottonis. 
2. " Multiplex. 

48. " crenalus. 

49. " Erysiesii. 
19. Cereus, aurantiacus. 

32. " Cgeruleus. 
10. " coccineus. 
24. " costus minor. 

33. " cylindricus. 
47. '* Chiloensis. 
4&. " Desvauxii. 

21. " extensis. 
23. " fimbriatus. 

9. " fiagelliformis. 

14. '^ grandiflorus. 
20. " ignescens. 

17. " Jenkinsonii. 

35. " longiflorus. 

53. " Malisoni. 

18. '^ marcrantianus. 

12. " Monstrosus. 

43. " Mayfly. 

15. " Napoleonis. 

36. '• Pitajaya. 

13. " albaflorus. 

22. " squamulosus. 

44. " Smitbii. 

54. " triangularis. 

55. " Vandesi. 
U. " Peruvianus. 



72 DESCRIPTIVE LIST. 

No. 



27. 


Epiphyllum, 


Ackermanii. 


37. 


(( 


alatum. 


29. 


(( 


crispaium. 
Hithenii. 


39. 


(( 


56. 


it 


speciosnm. 


28. 


n 


truncalum. 


4. 


Opontia, 


vulgaris. 


5. 


cc 


rosea. 


6. 


C{ 


spinosissima. 
glauca. 


7. 


(( 


41. 


(C 


curssavia. 


42. 


(( 


fragilis. 


45. 


« 


truncata. 


60. 


« 


Brasiliensis. 


51. 


(C 


cochinillifera. 


3. 


<( 


microdasis. 


52. 


t( 


spinosissima minor. 


31. 


cc 


discolor. 


25. 


It 


pulsilla. 


57. 


(( 




26. 


Pereskia, 


aculata. 


40. 


" 


grandiflora. 




Rhipsalis. 


salicornoides. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



OODmEOBfllB 



